The Science of Curls: Curl Patterns and Types

For those blessed with curls, hair can feel like a mysterious map of spirals and loops, unique and sometimes frustratingly incomprehensible. However, understanding it is vital for achieving desired hair health and styles. So, welcome to “The Science Behind Your Curls: Curl Patterns and Types” – a guide to demystifying curly locks, from whorls and waves to coils and zigzags.

Firstly, curl patterns vary widely, and knowing your specific type can be revelatory. With this knowledge, you can choose the right products, techniques, and styles tailored to your curls. Whether you’re new to the curly world or a seasoned spiral aficionado, this guide serves as an in-depth roadmap to the science and art of curly hair.

What makes Curly Hair…Curly?

The answer is found in the structure of our hair. Each person has around 100,000 hairs on their head. Each strand is composed of multiple layers. Firstly, at the core is the medulla. Next, there is the cortex, which provides color and strength. Additionally, the cuticle layer, consisting of overlapping scales, protects the inner layers. Furthermore, this outer layer gives hair its shine. In curly hair, these cuticles are more raised than in straight hair. 

Moreover, the real magic happens in the shape of the hair follicle. These tiny sacs are where each strand grows. In straight hair, follicles are round. Conversely, in curly hair, they’re oval or elliptical. Consequently, this shape means straight hair grows unchanged in shape. But curly hair, growing through a curved follicle, results in a spiral or wave pattern.

The Basics of Curl Patterns

Before we begin unraveling the specifics, it’s important to lay down some foundational knowledge about curl patterns.

What Are Curl Patterns, Exactly?

Curl patterns refer to the shape that your hair naturally takes when allowed to dry without manipulation, styling, or mechanical disruption. These patterns are classified into different types based on the diameter of the curl, ranging from tight corkscrews to loose, bouncy spirals.

How Is Curl Type Determined?

The Curly Girl Method, popularized by Lorraine Massey’s book “Curly Girl,” identifies curl types by the natural form the hair takes when it’s clean and conditioned but free of heavy products that can weigh it down.

The Curl Classification System

The most widely acknowledged and used curl classification system is the Andre Walker System, which includes:

• Type 2 (Wavy)
• Type 3 (Curly)
• Type 4 (Coily)

Understanding Your Curl Type

Now, we’re going to drill down into the nitty-gritty of curl patterns, breaking down each type with all the pertinent details you need to know.

Type 2: The Wavy Spectrum

Type 2 curls are the gentlest of the curl family, tending to form an S shape, with the lower the number, the straighter it is. The three subtypes of wavy hair within the 2 category range from barely-there kinks to nearly-curls, garnering the attention of the surf spray lovers and texturizing dry shampoo users.

2A

Possessing the loosest bend, usually more on the beach-waved side, 2A hair is typically fine and thin.

2B

With a more defined S-shaped curl pattern, 2B hair is often described as frizz-prone with waves that start at the roots and become straighter towards the ends.

2C

This wavy hair is thick and coarse, with well-defined waves and curls that start from the roots, but it still tends to frizz and may get a little unruly in humid conditions.

Type 3: The Curly Crew

Type 3 curls are known for their springiness and volume, making them a significant step up in terms of bounce and definition from wavy hair. They range from soft ringlets to tight corkscrews.

3A

Looser and large, 3A curls are about the circumference of sidewalk chalk and usually very shiny.

3B

Tighter and usually bouncier than 3A, 3B curls are more in the realm of marker-sized ringlets or finger-sized coils.

3C

With spiral curls or tight corkscrews, 3C hair is often a combination of coily and curly hair types, sometimes with a more fragile feel due to the smaller circumference of the coils.

Type 4: The Coiled Collective

Type 4 hair is where we find the tightest curl patterns, often referred to as “Afro-textured” hair. It ranges from fine and soft to course and wiry, manifesting some of the most shrinkage and showcasing the most versatile hair when it comes to style options.

4A

Tightly coiled with an S-shaped pattern, 4A curls are defined and springy, maintaining less of an angle to the scalp.

4B

These tightly coiled strands tend to bend in sharp angles, virtually Z-shaped patterns, making a fluffy, almost cottony texture.

4C

The tightest of all curl patterns, 4C is closely coiled and, as a characteristic, has no defined curl pattern. It can shrink more than 75% of the actual hair length when dry and is known for its delicate nature.

Managing Your Unique Curls

Knowing your curl pattern is just the beginning. It’s equally important to understand how to care for and style your unique curls to maintain their health and vibrancy.

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

• Use lightweight, sulfate-free shampoos.
• Condition regularly, applying conditioner from the mid-shaft to the ends.
• Consider a mousse or light-hold gel for definition without weighing down the waves.

Curly Hair (Type 3)

• Hydration is key for defined curls—frequent deep conditioning treatments are a must.
• Plop your hair after washing and conditioning to encourage more defined curls.
• Avoid brushing when dry to prevent frizz.

Coily Hair (Type 4)

• Keep your hair well-moisturized; consider the LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) method.
• Before styling, stretch your hair to its maximum length to prevent breakage.
• Sleep on a satin pillowcase or wear a satin bonnet to prevent moisture loss and reduce friction.

Styling Techniques for Different Curls

Beyond everyday care, styling your curls is a form of artistry, with a myriad of techniques and tools available to cater to your curl type.

Wash-and-Go

A simple, albeit a bit misleading term, the wash-and-go is ideal for Type 3 curls that respond well to minimal handling. Apply product to wet hair, scrunch, and allow your hair to dry naturally, or using a diffuser on a low heat setting.

Twist Outs

A protective style staple, twist outs involve sectioning damp hair and twisting each section tightly. Once dry, unravel the twists for defined and stretchy curls.

Bantu Knots

Favored by those with Type 4 curls, Bantu knots can be a stylish way to create a defined curl pattern or a great way to stretch hair. Create small sections and twist them around into mini buns, allowing them to dry before carefully unraveling.

Pineappling

A favorite among curly haired folk, pineappling helps protect curls while sleeping. Gather your hair into a high ponytail or loose bun at the top of your head, using a scrunchie (never a tight elastic) to maintain the shape of your curls.

Difficulty with Curl Typing

Categorizing your curls isn’t always straightforward, and many people have a mix of different curl patterns throughout their head. This variety can make selecting the best products and styling methods a bit more complex. However, don’t worry! Techniques like the Curly Girl Method (which can also be used for Curly Guys) and the Curl Quenching method are specifically designed to accommodate the uniqueness of mixed curls. So, embrace your curls and explore these methods for beautiful, healthy hair!

The Curly Girl Method

This approach, as championed by Lorraine Massey, promotes using silicone-free and sulfate-free products to enhance and maintain the natural beauty of curls. It emphasizes the importance of moisture and avoids practices that can damage or cause excessive dryness to curly hair.

The Curl Quenching Method

A more recent adaptation that encourages curlies to think beyond their basic hair type, the Curl Quenching Method emphasizes proper hydration through the manipulation of curl density and porosity. This ensures each curl is treated with the care it needs, even if it’s different from the curl next to it.

Building Your Curl Routine

With an understanding of your curl pattern and how to care for and style it, you’re now equipped to craft a personal curl care regimen that will keep your locks looking their best. Your routine should incorporate:

• Regular deep conditioning treatments.
• Protection against heat and environmental damage.
• The use of quality, curl-specific products.
• A focus on methods that promote definition and manageability.

Final Thoughts

No two curls are the same, and that’s part of what makes curly hair so beautifully diverse and unique. While the curl typing system and recommended care regimens provide a helpful framework, it’s crucial to remember that each head of curls is its own ecosystem, deserving of personalized attention. Furthermore, the science of curls: curl patterns and types, is as much about individuality and self-discovery as it is about following a set of rules. By honing in on what makes your curls special, you can, therefore, turn your hair into a form of art that expresses your personality and style.